Issue link: https://cp.revolio.com/i/1524530
20 | WheelsOfGrace.com | #74 TECH Q&A Clean Oil Residue I am in the process of replacing my starter and found it to be somewhat overwhelming. My question is, while the primary cover is off, is there a spray or other product to clean the old oil residue and or contaminants out prior to reassembly? Is it acceptable to use compressed air to blow out any particles? The bike is a 1994 HD Fat Boy. You can use most any aerosol brake cleaner to clean, whatever you think looks good at a local auto parts store. Yes, using compressed air is great for cleaning thoroughly, just make sure you remember to use safety glasses or goggles. Chasing Starting Issue 2002 Harley FXDWG: I believe I am getting no spark. Bike just wouldn't run one morning. No warning. Did the screwdriver in the SP wire and see if there was an arc to the plug and nothing. Have replaced the following thus far. Plugs, wires, coil module and Crank Position Sensor. Starter and battery fine. Starter cranks over but no spark. After replacing all of those components, the first thing we would suggest is that you use a test light or multimeter & test to see if your coil is being powered correctly. No Spark on my Wide Glide Been troubleshooting my Harley Wide Glide having no spark. I've done the next step and proven there is power to the ignition coil. Coil, plugs, wires, module, map sensor and crank position sensor all new. Still no spark. You may have a broken wire or pin/socket connection at the crank position sensor, at the coil, or ignition module plug. Sometimes a wire can break at a pin or socket crimp. Issues like this can be difficult to diagnose without a factory electrical manual and a breakout box. The electrical manual has flow charts that can be followed to isolate the problem. That makes sense. I actually came to that conclusion this morning as well. One more question. I don't have Deutsch pin removal tools and usually can get them off with a couple picks. I could not for the life of me figure out how to get the crank sensor pins out of the old connector, so I cut the pins off the new one and cut the connector off the old one, then spliced the two wires together, heat shrinking each wire and wrapping it in electrical tape. Would there be any issues with that? Can I just do a continuity test on the connector to test? By Mark DiPietro We would not advise hard wiring the sensor like that, but it will work fine as long as the connections are secure. You might want to try covering the wires with some split loom conduit. It can go over the electrical tape. Brake Squeal 2008 Heritage Classic Softail – front brake squeal problem. After replacing a warped front rotor with a new float HD disc rotor 44358-00A and new HD disc pads the front brakes started to squeal when applying the brakes at low speed. This replacement was done over a year ago. The HD dealership said this was normal and would eventually stop. Unfortunately, even after regular serving as per your videos and HD maintenance manual the brake squeal is still there. Can you please advise what could be the cause of the brake squeal. Thank you. We recommend beveling the edges of the brake pads. Also, try lightly scuffing your brake pad surfaces with sandpaper. If this does not help with your squeal, you will need to try a new set of brake pads. Brake Pin Removal 1. How do you remove the brake pin with the swing arm in the way? There is no way to get a socket on that pin. 2. With the caliper on the rotor, how can the pistons be pushed back into the body? You would need to force a piece of metal between the rotor and the brake pad, therefore possibly scoring or marking the rotor. The HD forums have a post that says to remove the bolt at the rear of the swing arm, and then slide the caliper forward to remove the brake pad pin. Not sure if I want to follow a post from a forum thread in regard to brakes, because I am not sure if the caliper would rotate forward with one bolt removed. Wouldn't I be putting stress on the banjo bolt assembly? Any insights as to how to perform this, I would appreciate it greatly. Do not want to take it to a dealer—I'm far away (1 hour) and the expense would be, as usual, outrageous. Thanks again for taking the time. Years and models are different. Refer to your service manual. You can move the caliper forward by loosening/removing bolts #1 and #3. Before doing so, use the box end of a 1/4″ wrench to loosen the pad pin. Bend back the brake line retaining clip to free the brake line. As long as you do not let the caliper hang by the line, the banjo assembly will be fine. You can gently pry against the rotor with a non-marring tool to compress the caliper pistons. This is specifically what the Harley Davidson manual tells us to do. However, if you have the caliper removed and, in your hand, remove the pads and pry the pistons back with flange pliers or large retaining ring pliers.